Please Note On Your Order The Vehicle Use, These Engines Are Used In Multiple Applications. New Piston Kits, Rod Bearings, Main Bearings, Cam Bearings, Long Block Gasket Set, Oil Pump, and several Valve Train parts are replaced.
Our Remanufactured 6.7L Cummins Long Blocks are assembled using Mahle, Federal Mogul, Hastings, Melling, Silvolite, SBI, and Elgin parts. PLEASE READ & REVIEW THE INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS WITH THE INSTALLER!ĬLICK HERE FOR OUR INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS A copy of the installation instructions (along with various other documents for your review) will be included with the long block shipment. You will need to follow the installation instructions found under the documentation tab on the home page. On vehicles with automatic transmissions, check the flex plate for lateral runout or damage.You will receive the long block, as pictured, along with the new oil pump & the long block gasket set.
6.7 CUMMINS REAR MAIN SEAL WET MANUAL
Make sure you check the input shaft on a manual transmission for play. If there are any alignment problems with the bell housing or input shaft of the transmission, they can cause stress on the rear main seal. If the seal is installed with a coating of oil, it will start to leak in a few miles. The transfer layer prevents wear while sealing better than a silicone or Viton material. The seal will transfer a layer of PTFE to the crankshaft surfaces that the lip will ride on. These seals have a polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) coating on the lip seal that needs to be dry and seat to a dry surface on the crankshaft. Some rear main seals need to be installed dry. There are sleeve kits that can be installed on the crankshaft to restore the surface.ĭid you follow the directions that came with the seal? Any imperfections or wear on the crankshaft can cause a leak.
The condition of the surfaces that the rear main seal rides on is critical. The lip that rides on the crankshaft will become stiff and will not be able to seal itself against the crankshaft. The seal conditions are depleted over time along with buffers in the oil. If the oil is not changed regularly, it will cause the seal to degrade. Most oils have chemicals in their additive packages that will condition the seals in the engine. Also, if the engine is supercharged or turbocharged, excessive blowby due to worn or damaged piston rings can cause increased crankcase pressure that can also damage the rear main seal. If the Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) system is blocked, it will increase the pressures inside the crankshaft and push out the seal. Too much pressure will eventually cause the lip to balloon and allow oil to pass. The pressure inside the crankcase will push the lip onto the shaft. Most rear main seals have a lip that rides on the shaft. Adding dye to the oil can help reveal where the oil is coming from. It could be a leaking oil pressure sensor, oil pan gasket or galley plug near the seal that causes oil to come from the bell housing. On most engines, oil leaks can occur above and below the rear main seal. Is it the rear main seal that is leaking? Here are six questions you should be asking yourself before, during and after a rear main seal job. Solving why the seal failed in the first place is critical to preventing a labor-intensive comeback. On most modern engines, the seal’s failure is due to a condition inside the engine or a component connected to the back of the engine. There are no shortcuts or quick fixes if the seal has expired. The most labor-intensive seal to replace on any engine is the rear main seal.
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